Waiex S/N W0044 Project

 
5th: Fitted the right wing tip rib, drilled, and clecoed. Drilled one pilot hole for the spar tip flange before remembering that you don't rivet this on the fiberglass tip, as it doesn't sit down on the spar tip. To get a good fit, I shaved a bit off the flange where it butts up against the #12 rib at the end of the bottom spar. I also trimmed the top flange to clear the top spar cap.

 
5th, later: Riveted the aft bottom wing skin, which freed up enough 1/8" clecoes to then ream out the tip rib holes the next day. The tip rib, like the root doubler, won't be permanently attached until near final assembly, after the lights are set up. Also unclipped the forward skin to deburr the dimples, after reaming them out to #30: the dimple die didn't quite stretch the holes enough. There wasn't much of a burr, and the process of strapping the skin to match the seam holes was the major part of the job.

 
19th: Having riveted the leading edge, the wing is ready to turn over to do the top side, which is a two-person job.

 
19th: Up we go. Not only is it getting easier with the wing more stable, but there are fewer sharp edges hanging out, and fewer clecoes to catch on the dunnage.

 
19th: About a minute after the first picture above. The wing is resting on dunnage blocks once again. Unfortunately, all the clecoes come out one more time to deburr the dimples and install hardware before the wing is closed for good. Judy survived this "shop moment" with no cuts and bruises, but it isn't something she is comfortable with yet.

19th: The afternoon was spent drilling out the rest of the holes in the root doubler to #30 and deburring. Then, the aft skin was removed for final deburring and cleanup. It also looked a bit easier to fit the aileron pushrods with the skin off, so I rounded up the drawings and parts. It looks like it would be best to permanently attach the hardware after the wing is complete, but a dry run and parts fitting was easier now.

19th: The plans say to file down the thrust washer for a clearance fit on the short aileron pushrod, but it obviously means file down the bushing. The pushrod end and the washer are about 3/16" thick, so I drilled a 5/16" hole in some scrap 3/16" aluminum as a fixture to hold the bushing, filed away and then checked with the calipers for proper tolerance. Also, had to use the adjustable reamer on the pushrod hole to remove the paint inside the hole to get a snug fit that allowed the bushing to rotate inside the hole, per plans.

19th: Fitting the aileron pushrods, no nut on the long pushrod at this time. That inspection access hole looks awfully small to do this with the skins on.