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Build chronology milestones
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Chronology |
December | February |
January 2008 |
5th: Fitted the right wing tip rib, drilled, and clecoed.
Drilled one pilot hole for the spar tip flange before
remembering that you don't rivet this on the fiberglass tip,
as it doesn't sit down on the spar tip. To get a good fit, I
shaved a bit off the flange where it butts up against the #12
rib at the end of the bottom spar. I also trimmed the top
flange to clear the top spar cap. |
5th, later: Riveted the aft bottom wing skin,
which freed up enough 1/8" clecoes to then ream out the tip
rib holes the next day. The tip rib, like the root doubler,
won't be permanently attached until near final assembly, after
the lights are set up. Also unclipped the forward skin to
deburr the dimples, after reaming them out to #30: the dimple
die didn't quite stretch the holes enough. There wasn't much
of a burr, and the process of strapping the skin to match the
seam holes was the major part of the job. |
19th:
Having riveted the leading edge, the wing is ready to turn over to
do the top side, which is a two-person job. |
19th:
Up we go. Not only is it getting easier with the wing more
stable, but there are fewer sharp edges hanging out, and fewer
clecoes to catch on the dunnage. |
19th:
About a minute after the first picture above. The wing is
resting on dunnage blocks once again. Unfortunately, all the
clecoes come out one more time to deburr the dimples and
install hardware before the wing is closed for good. Judy
survived this "shop moment" with no cuts and bruises, but it
isn't something she is comfortable with yet. |
19th: The afternoon was spent drilling out the rest of
the holes in the root doubler to #30 and deburring. Then, the
aft skin was removed for final deburring and cleanup. It also
looked a bit easier to fit the aileron pushrods with the skin
off, so I rounded up the drawings and parts. It looks like it
would be best to permanently attach the hardware after the
wing is complete, but a dry run and parts fitting was easier now.
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19th:
The plans say to file down the thrust washer for a clearance
fit on the short aileron pushrod, but it obviously means file
down the bushing. The pushrod end and the washer are about
3/16" thick, so I drilled a 5/16" hole in some scrap 3/16"
aluminum as a fixture to hold the bushing, filed away and then
checked with the calipers for proper tolerance. Also, had to
use the adjustable reamer on the pushrod hole to remove the
paint inside the hole to get a snug fit that allowed the
bushing to rotate inside the hole, per plans.
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19th:
Fitting the aileron pushrods, no nut on the long
pushrod at this time. That inspection access hole looks awfully
small to do this with the skins on.
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